Residential
A lock that will not turn? We repair it where it is
A lock that sticks, binds or has gone loose: we look for the part that failed and replace it at the door.
Where
South-eastern Pennsylvania
What we cover
Chester County, Delaware County, Montgomery County, Lancaster County and Philadelphia
How we work
We are a mobile locksmith. We come to you.
What this covers
A lock repair job is for the lock that sticks, turns rough, feels loose, or will not catch the way it should. It can be a key that slips, a latch that does not line up, a cylinder that turns partway, or a body that has worn enough to stop doing its job. We come to you and look at the lock itself, whether it is on a house, a car, or a business door, and we work on the part that is failing.
How we approach it
Every repair starts with the same question: what part of the lock is not doing its job, and what can be brought back into working order on site. Some jobs call for a simple part replacement, while others need a closer look at wear, breakage, or misalignment inside the lock. Rim, mortise, and bored cylindrical hardware all fail in different ways, so we match the repair to the hardware and the symptom instead of treating every lock the same, then reopen the lock for the next step.
Where it stops
This page does not cover cutting or reshaping parts in a machine shop, and it does not cover carpentry on the door, frame, or hinges. If the problem is deeper than the lock itself, we keep the scope to the lock body, cylinder, latch, or related part that has failed. We handle the repair work that belongs to the lock, replace what is worn or broken, and leave the rest of the door to the door and the key to the lock.
What lock repair covers
Put a lock back into working order, replace the part that failed.
Worth knowing
When the first approach does not free the lock or put it back in order, we stop forcing the same part and look at what is binding or broken. On a rim lock, that can mean checking the cylinder, tailpiece, and cam; on a mortise lock, the hub, spindle, and latch case; on a bored cylindrical lock, the chassis, latch, and inside knob or lever spindle. If the damaged part will not hold adjustment or turn cleanly, we remove it and fit the part that failed.
We change the approach based on what moves and what does not. If the key turns but the latch does not retract, we look at the spindle, retractor, and latch assembly. If the bolt throws partway and stops, we check the deadbolt, edge face, and cylinder connection. If the cylinder spins loose or the key will not return smoothly, we reset the mounting screws, retainer, and tailpiece alignment, then replace the worn cylinder or other failed piece and reassemble the lock.
Sometimes the lock body is not the part that needs work, but the worn spring, broken hub, or damaged latch inside it. In those cases we remove the trim ring, cover plate, or inside knob set, then separate the lock enough to reach the failed piece and replace it. If the housing itself is cracked or bent, we put the lock back in working order by changing the damaged component rather than trying to machine it or alter the door edge, and we stop with the lock open and the parts set in place
Lock Repair: questions before you call
The key in my front door only turns halfway before it stops. What decides whether that lock can be repaired or needs a part replaced?
What decides it is where the failure is and what the lock does before it stops. Tell us whether the key stops in both directions, whether the thumbturn inside does the same, and whether the door has to be pushed or lifted first. A bolt rubbing the strike is different from a cylinder that binds at the halfway point.
What should I tell you on the phone about my office back door lock if the key goes in but will not turn?
Tell us the door type, the lock style, and the exact point where movement stops. Say whether it is a metal door or a wood door, whether the lock is a knob, lever, deadbolt, mortise, or rim cylinder, and whether the key enters fully. One useful detail is if the key turns a little with pressure on the door but not with the door at rest.
What should I have ready before you work on my side door lock that has been sticking all week?
Have every key for that door ready, including any key that sticks less or more than the others. We compare what each key does, and that helps separate a worn key problem from a problem inside the lock or with the door position. Also note one concrete thing, such as whether the latch catches when the door is open but drags when it is closed.
Does it change the repair if my shop door has a narrow lock case in the edge instead of a regular deadbolt?
Yes, the hardware changes what parts are involved and what can be repaired on site. A mortise lock has a lock case inside the door edge, while a bored cylindrical deadbolt fits round holes through the door. Tell us which one you have if you know it. On a mortise setup, the inside trim and the lock body matter, not just the key cylinder.
How do I know if I need lock repair or rekeying on my apartment door after the key started catching?
The difference is what problem you are trying to fix. Lock repair deals with a part that sticks, drags, loosens, or fails to move the latch or bolt. Rekeying changes which key operates the lock. If your key catches at the same spot every time, or the inside thumbturn feels rough, that points to repair rather than simply changing keys.
Jobs we have done
